The love to climb this mountain started 2 years ago, while I was helping and working for ‘Jordan Women Expedition – RISE’ on their training for Everest 2019. Their training started in Khumbu Region, starting from Lukla – Namche – Chukung and then climbing more on Amphu Lapcha Pass, Hinku Valley, Ombigachen Peak 6200m … etc. Basically, you go all around Ama Dablam.
Some mountaineers call this route ‘Ama Dablam 0 degree’ or ‘Ama Dablam 360’.
This mountains is known for the beautiful and iconic shape. Some of mountaineering magazines put Ama Dablam on the first place as the most beautiful mountain in the world.
Seeing Moun Ama Dablam for 3 weeks, almost every day, I started to have desire to come back only for this mountain.
This year (2018), spring season, while I was climbing Lhotce 8516m, I meet Casey Grom. A very experienced climber and guide, all around the world but mainly Mount Rainer and Himalayas.
While climbing on the same base camp with Casey, we somehow understood that we can can be a good partners for climbing together. This is what I always wanted … to find a strong, experienced partner on climbing.
Casey, told me that time that want to climb Ama Dablam on the Autumn 2018. I was really happy that he invited me to climb with him … so, I could climb and learn so much from him.
But, our idea was to climb without any support, only me and Casey.
So, after climbing Cho Ouy 8201m on Tibet, I flew back in Kathmandu and meet Casey.
Completely different feeling to climb with no clients, no other people, no groups, no Sherpa, just us. This idea made me even more excited, since I knew that I will need to push myself even more.
We started the expedition on Labuche Peak and after Island Peak, climbed these two beautiful mountain for the second time (first on 2017). As Casey kept telling me: ‘As much as you climb, you get more strong and experienced’ … so, even though I thought might be boring, I really enjoyed spending more time in Khumbu this time.
At the end, after we were sure that the rope were fixed, we went to Ama Dablam Base Camp and prepared to start climbing.
Its different to climb alone, without Sherpa or support. I was lucky to have Casey and I learned so much from him .. but at the same time, it was much harder and challenging than climbing with Sherpa.
But, this is what I want. This is what makes me feel happy.
After reaching Base Camp, we prepared for the climb. Checked all gears, food and weather and we made a plan for the summit push.
Day one: We did carry all our gears from Base camp to Camp 1. Besides gears, food, clothes, we also had to carry water since the clime is changing and there is no snow anymore at C1.
Day two; Rest Day on Base Camp.
Day three: Summit Push – Base Camp to Camp one / 1100 meters climbing – 4 hours
Day Four: C1 – C2 / quite technical climb / 300 meters – 3-4 hours
Day five: C2 – Summit of Ama Dablam and back to C1. / 1000 meters climbing – 6 hours and descending at C1.
Day six – Base camp and end of the expedition.
After the climb, we return all the way down to Lukla in two days. Everytime I finish climbing on Himalayas, when I come back home.. I always keep telling people that this was the best, and the other one was the best … and I guess every time every climb is the bet on her own way.
But Ama Dablam will be the best forever. Not just because of the way how we climbed or the mountain looked, but also because od the energy that this mountain has.
I felt so safe and good, very loving and gentle .. even though the mountain is quite exposed and very dangerous, still for me was the best feeling so far.